Finally got to surf the 6’4″ MonstaChief as a thruster in epic, overhead, south shore surf.
The thumb-tail worked beyond my expectations in the steepest part of the waves. This was especially true on one wave that I thought I was absolutely going to go over the falls, fail on the landing, and go through the wash-rinse-spin cycle.
But, incredibly, this is what actually happened:
- Popped-up just as the lip started pitching;
- grabbed air, free falling with the lip;
- mentally prepared for a violent collision on the flats;
- board settled down and the fins started biting;
- landed safely to set-up for the bottom turn; and 5) rode the rest of the wave with no problems.