A truly heart-warming story; something real, unpolluted and pure. 

But first, the bleak setting, then the uplifting illumination:

It’s easy to feel uneasy these days, ever since that ‘new normal’ thing was kicked off a few years ago. We all feel it. When you look around and see that the world is being manipulated and divided, plundered by a small group of people that have no clue what it means to truly live. The wars and many crises, and the new diseases that all seem to be engineered to bring us down. The push to replace people with AI. And the political puppets, bought and paid for, pushing fear to bring about submission to a dehumanized system. It seems to have infiltrated even our sacred world of surf with companies selling out left and right to the equity holdings and hedgefunders, squeezing the lifeblood of a sport and industry, athletes walking away while ESG scores fund agendas that nobody wants. Outsourced corporatists forcing fall-apart mass production all the while slapping ‘eco friendly’ labels on the short-lived products that clog the landfills with dizzying acceleration. Where world champions are no longer decided by overall merit, but by what is the simplest turn-key plug and play system for the corporation.

And upon this setting, I introduce a local kid, Carlos, from Nicaragua. 

What he understands is running across the hot sand at his local beachbreak…excited to get back in the water. And enter also one of our clients, Michael, who happened to cross paths with Carlos while exploring Central America…and so Mike gets back to me – “Hey, there’s this really cool local kid I met down here who surfs really good…and I want to order him a custom board from you.” Flash forward, this is that board and this is that kid.

And this is how surfing is supposed to be. Organic. Relational. Surprising. Light. Simple. Thoughtful. Kind. Selfless. Sacred. Shared. Special. It’s the sparkle that doesn’t fade after all the heat and pressure has run it’s course…for from the dross pours forth gold, and out of coal emerges diamonds.

So to Mike, who saw a need and got a bro a custom, Thank you! And to Troy, another client who was traveling that way and brought the board down, thank you! And to Carlos who keeps it real, You are ripping brother! Keep it going!

Carlos is 21, 5’9”, 170 Riding a 5’10” x 19 3/8” x 2 7/16” 28.5L #Procco2030