A recent stormed-out Rincon sesh, a 5’9” Magnum Opus, and a random swap out with Wardo…
This day was organic as it gets. The wind was nuking, victory at sea blown out mess, but I just had to get a day out of the factory; had the itch, needed to rinse off the world, and was jonesing to get in the water and be out in the elements for the day, regardless of the conditions.
It was wonderful. Nobody was out, there was every season of the year happening by the minute. Rain squall downpour one second, then the sun would peak through the blackness and light everything up all crisp and wintery the next. Then it would go onshore, then sideshore, then offshore, then devil wind. Then the sun came out full hop and it was suddenly like summer…then it clouded up suddenly and rained icy cold again. The water was a runoff soaked arctic brown green, and the waves were chunky power warblers marching around the point.
Tricky yet rad. And into this scene shows up Chris Ward. The stories of how he tends to pop up in the most unsuspecting of places, time spent on the road hunting waves…those stories are true, and it ended up being that this day was another one of those missions. We chatted briefly about the waves and the weather and boards, and it struck me that my own personal magic Magnum Opus would be a rad Wardo match for the day’s unruly dead spots and chunky sections…a little extra glide and carry, but still have that rail drive when it called for that iconic Ward wrap hack. I handed him my board and said, “I think this could be the call on a day like today…” What went down next was…well, legendary.
